Mackerel Road from Obama in Fukui Prefecture All the Way through Kyoto

Miketsukuni was a term that was used throughout the Heian period (794-1185) to signify a province that provided seafood and other foods to the imperial court. One such province was Wakasa (in present-day Fukui Prefecture), which is blessed with the abundant riches of the Sea of Japan. Even after its role as a miketsukuni ended, it has continued to contribute greatly to Kyoto’s food culture. The numerous roads connecting Wakasa and Kyoto have been known collectively since the 1970s as the Saba Kaido (Mackerel Road), on account of the voluminous quantity of fish and marine products delivered along these routes. The most traveled of these paths was the Wakasa Kaido, which passes through Kumakawa and Kutsuki (Shiga Prefecture) on its way to Kyoto’s Demachi district. In addition, the Harihatagoe Road, which winds up the Onyu River and over the Harihata Pass to Kyoto’s Kurama district, was important as the shortest and oldest path to the ancient capital.
The Saba Kaido is known not only for the many cultural properties found along its length, but also for the distinctive cultures that have formed in the villages through which it passes. Folk ceremonies originating in the capital, such as the ounomai and rokusai nenbutsu dances, have been preserved in unique forms in the various localities. Volunteer guide groups in Wakasa enjoy relating to visitors the 1,500-year history of the Saba Kaido.

The port city of Obama (not the name of the 44th US President) on Wakasa Bay was a hub for trade with foreign countries. It became the starting point of the Saba Kaido with the establishment of the Obama Ichiba market in 1607. Marine resources and products were transported to Kyoto along these paths.
Obama Nishiguchi, to the west of the Obama Ichiba, was a castle town built in the Edo period (1603-1867). It has separate districts for temples, merchant homes, and entertainment, and the many extant cultural properties are a testament to the wealth generated in this period. Suigetsu, a high-end restaurant in a building archetypal of the entertainment quarter, still serves traditional mackerel cuisine. The Kumagawa Juku post town was the largest transit point on the Saba Kaido. Wholesalers would commission agents to transport large volumes of supplies from Obama by horse or carrier to Kyoto. Many traditional buildings still line the streets, including the Ogino family residence, the area’s oldest machiya townhouse. The wide mixture of building styles gives Kumagawa Juku a unique feel. The area’s specialty is Kumagawa kuzu (Japanese arrowroot), which has been sold in Kyoto since the 17th century. It is considered to be one of the three best types of Japanese kuzu on account of its purity and quality, and its refined taste has made it a popular product. It continues to be manufactured using a traditional method known as kanzarashi (soaking in cold water), which uses high-quality kuzu from the upper reaches of Kitagawa River and cold underground water from the Tanigawa River.